VIRC Fiber Rush 6/32 Kraft Brown Large 1100' Spinning Fishing Combo

This product was just what I expect from the seller. High quality and works great with fast deliver

So I don't really know how to rate this stuff as I've not had any experience before with fiber rush.I over-dampened it on the first length I used and had issues tying new lengths on as well as several breaks when pulling the rush tight. I eventually got the hang of how long to soak it (basically submerge and right back out) along with leaving the "tail" unwetted. This helped tremendously when it came time to knot a new length. I did not have the reported issue of it uncurling except when it was over moistened.It turned out well enough and I've got a lot of the spool left after just two ladderbacks. If I were to do it over again, I'd probably go with the thinner gauge.

got it fast to redo my chairs. exactly what i needed

This product worked great for the bottom of my chairs

This product is PAPER. If needing rush for seats you need twisted cattail rush or something else, if you can find it. We dipped it in water but it broke. As you know, you need a little water on the fiber to make it pliable. Next, we tried it dry. It was difficult to use.It looks thicker than the original rush and 6/32 is the recommended size for our chair. The first pic was original rush from our broken chair. The next 2 are the paper replacement fiber. Pic 2 is a rip I made, it tore like a paper towel. Pic 3 shows the 6/32 size of this product. If you're hoping to replace chair bottoms, do not dip in water and definitely do not soak. You have to keep this paper fiber DRY, and twisted tight, do not let it unravel. At this point, I don't think it will hold like the original fiber. If this replacement bottom gets wet, I think it will be toast.

On time.

Fast shipping great product

I was able to get 4 ladder back chairs done with material leftover. My first attempt was successful. I did not have trouble with unraveling or breakage. My suggestions:• Use small "cut tacks" - I found a tack hammer to be very useful compared to a conventional claw hammer.• I pulled off about 20-25 winds into a coil I could hold in my hand while working. The 6/32 wound up being a little smaller diameter than the rush I was replacing. If you go for the next fatter size, you'll have many (many!) fewer winds to do. I think each chair took at least 100 yards of material.• Dip the working coil in water for 10-20 seconds, and shake off the excess water. Dampening the material makes it more flexible and a little stretchy. Too wet and it can unravel or break. As it dries back out, the weave and the knots will tighten a bit.• It does take a bit of work to manage the twist of the material - the twist makes the material strong and so it's advantageous to keep the twist consistent and even tight. The challenge is that the twist will also compound itself in the "loose" end of the material - the whole coil may want to curl into a figure-eight, (in which case you can just work the whole back into a neat loop with your hands), loose loops will twist around themselves, and even one small loop can make a kink. Just be patient and keep the sections you are pulling tight nice and straight.• As you pass your working coil through the chair frame, it's also easy for the twist to occasionally unwind or unravel a bit. When this happens, you can spin the coil or free end around to put a good twist back in there. I found the material to have a good memory such that I could put a lot of twist back into the free end without it wanting to wind around itself too much.• rather than using a caning wedge to tap the winds tight, I found a normal flat head screwdriver a good tool to align and tighten the wraps.• I used a little wood glue on the knots, cleaning up with a damp toothbrush.Good luck - I found some good instructions on YouTube - it's not hard to do but a lot of work and tough on the hands.